“I am only a tool.”
-Aizenkobo, indigo dyer aka “Gracious Man”. 2016

What a profound, humbling individual. “I am only a tool.” If you had seen the works created by Aizenkobo’s family & their many skilled artisans, the painstakingly hand-stitched shibori works, their range of crafted naturally dyed indigo products, the in-depth artistry and craftsmanship impossibly apparent even to the unskilled eye, you would be blown away by the humbleness of this individual.

Despite my rudeness not to have pre-arranged an one-on-one visit, the gentleman, clad in ankle length white Levi’s & a deep indigo slim fit, untucked collar top in his late 30’s greeted me with perfect English. (oh the relief I had to find we spoke a common language!) He introduced himself as the in-house dyer. No name was exchanged (because I am rude and awkward with no sense of mannerism) so for the sake of the following post, I will name him Gracious Man.

Like a gracious host inviting a foreigner into his home, he takes me on a tour. Covering every inch of the beautiful traditional Japanese home of approximately 1200square feet. As I mosey around, man-handling every product with extreme eagerness, he divulged historic knowledge about each item from wall hangings painted with rice paste to the one of a kind suit, where the fabric was woven with a distinctive loom where only 2 of such exist still in all of Kyoto then indigo dyed to the specifications of the customer. As much I would love to document 3hrs of conversations / debate here (yes, I had the audacity to debate on some life thoughts that arose. So rude of me but rest assure, it was a friendly debate.) I will simply note down the highlights that I wish to transfer to my own work and those around me.

They exist only to serve. Aizenkobo’s service to their customers surpasses my expectation. They sacrifice time at their own expense simply to ensure customers receive the maximum satisfaction of their goods. Professional relationships between the maker and the buyer are developed just so the maker can in some form, weave/stitch/dye/paint their personality/family traits into the products of request. All of Aizenkobo’s artisans ensure their ultimate best is performed. If I remember correctly, Gracious Man had told me over 500 skilled workers from all over Kyoto, each specializing in a certain skill works for Aizenkobo. (I’m not 100% sure of this figure but I vaguely remember being absolutely shocked when he mentioned a figure that sounded like “500”) So imagine when this whole community puts their very best efforts, you can imagine the immaculate craftsmanship; every dip in the vat, every stitch no matter how tedious purposefully made. The outcome is purely gold, cherished for a lifespan, passed from one generation to another. Aizenkobo continues to serve the customers long after they have owned their products. If customers desire their works to be mend, re-dyed, re-designed, Aizenkobo will honor such service. The scarf I had chosen to purchased, Gracious Man repeated over and over again, if I ever wanted it to be washed or re-dyed, they will do so and that’s how a life-long relationship between Gracious Man, Aizenkobo & myself was created, over a beautifully shibori indigo dyed silk scarf. They have become my inspiration to serve others around my community. If we can learn a page from Japanese hospitality, I truly believe the community around us will go round the right way, wherever we live.

While it may be unrealistic to make a viable living in the fast paced 21st century with the amount of time needed to create such a handcrafted product using age old techniques, Aizenkobo serve the ever dying community that continues to hold onto the past and cherish traditions. It is thankful Kyoto is one of the few cities in Japan that has preserve the past, allowing tourists to travel back in time to traditions so precious to one’s original culture. Because of this strong grasp to tradition, the appreciation of ancient crafts practiced for centuries still exist, more prominently than say; Tokyo or even closer to home; Toronto.

Just a block from Aizenkobo, HOSOO, original only a weaving house in Kyoto have begun to embrace the new and have collaborated with other world-wide designers, creating new products that would be more fitting in the modern world. After the lengthy visit to Aizenkobo, I scurried over to HOSOO, 15mins late to an appointment I had made with a kind woman on same day; mid-morning because of course, my rude mannerism did not make prior arrangements to visit. (Clearly something I have to work on!) After just coming from Aizenkobo, HOSOO’s visit would appear extreme opposite to traditions. Their showroom featured collaborated works of art; functional for today’s use made with traditional means. HOSOO’s value on tradition was important but they also understood the need to merge into the new world where contemporary art is more widely known. HOSOO’s fabrics are beautifully woven on computerized looms managed by a group of weavers. Yarns are sourced and chosen to create any particular complex pattern the family has developed and made known as their specialty are created as collections where other companies flaunt to showcase in their own luxury buildings. Their collaborations featured a wide range of collections from ceramics, beautiful shoes made with HOSOO’s fabrics, wall hangings to bamboo furniture accessories. Because HOSOO is known for their specialty woven fabrics, they receive many visitors to their studio / home from all over the world. Including Pharrell Williams.  I have proof  If an American vocalist, rapper & producer makes it a point to visit an impossibly hard to find textile studio in Kyoto, traditions has done right in merging the old with new.

With a bit of Aizenkobo & HOSOO, I come away with an abundance of valuable knowledge I hope to transfer into my own work. I only hope my first relaunch of creative works will do some justice to what Japan has kindly offered me.
If you ever do get a chance to visit Kyoto and have a curious love for textile traditions, I highly recommend booking an appointment with both Aizenkobo & HOSOO ahead of time. 🙂

For Aizenkobo’s email: aizenkobo@biglobe.jp
For HOSOO’s email:nakayama@hosoo.co.jp Direct email to Mizuki Nakayama, Project Manager